Author: Italian Tours

12 Oct PALAZZO SCHIFANOIA – A RENAISSANCE TREASURE IN FERRARA

Posted at 02:24h in Destinations, Travel Tips by Italian Tours

After well over two years of renovations, the Great Hall of the Months in Ferrara’s Palazzo Schifanoia, one of the most extravagant and fascinating residences of the Italian Renaissance, has reopened to the public gaze. Borso d’Este commissioned a group of local artists to complete the celebrated fresco cycle that decorates its walls in 1469. The careful restoration, complemented by the new and much-improved lighting, has given it new life.

Borso d’Este was an illustrious member of Ferrara’s Este family, which ruled over the city for around 400 years from the 13th Century. He was very fond of sumptuous and magnificent displays of grandeur, which he used to great success to impress his subjects as well as neighbouring States. He wasn’t alone in this type of exercise: it was common in most Renaissance courts, where culture and shows of magnificence were often used as a political tool.

The fresco cycle of the months on the walls of Palazzo Schifanoia’s Great Hall is a result of these attitudes. The whole palace itself is a celebration of leisure and frivolous diversion as the name of the palace suggests — Schifanoia derives from the court’s use of the palace to avoid boredom (schifar la noia). It was also used to entertain and house foreign dignitaries and important guests.

The artwork is an enormous calendar that represents and glorifies the good acts and positive outcomes of Borso d’Este’s government. These are set out month-by-month and are depicted as being influenced and protected by the classical divinities and the stars according to the medieval astrological tradition.

The fresco portrays a loggia in the foreground with various scenes playing out behind it. The columns of the loggia frame the months, and each frame is divided horizontally into three sections. The top section portrays one of the classical divinities (on a triumphal float surrounded by followers and proteges). The middle is an astrological representation, with the sign of the Zodiac, surrounded by the three patrons of that month according to an Arabic reading of astrology and magic. The bottom section depicts scenes of Borso d’Este surrounded by his court, busy with the activities of government and court life, such as hunting with falcons.

Detail from the month of March by Francesco del Cossa – The Triumph of Minerva
Image by Sailko / CC BY-SA and found on Wikimedia Commons

The details of the frescos are so intricate and astounding that the meaning of some, especially in the middle section, are today shrouded in mystery. The fresco cycle, with its sophisticated and complex iconographic language, was conceived by the great Pellegrino Prisciani, Borso d’Este’s court intellectual. He was an important and influential figure in the cultural scene of the Ferrara court, an all-round humanist, well-versed in many disciplines, including astrology.

As for the artists and their work, they were a very talented group that created one of the most extraordinary works of art of the Renaissance. There is one artist in particular whose talent stands out from the rest. Francesco Del Cossa’s superior technique and exceptional artistic style make his contribution to the hall’s Eastern wall the most impressive. His work has survived the test of time much better than that of his colleagues.

Francesco Del Cossa is one of the most noteworthy, yet forgotten artists of the 15th Century. We know very little about his formative years. What we do know is that he worked between Ferrara and Bologna and that he was sought-after and much respected by his contemporaries and peers, including Michelangelo. So much so, that his work inspired an important school of followers.

As a final note, a warning to the prospective visitor. Unfortunately, not all of the fresco cycle has survived intact. If Del Cossa’s work on the Eastern wall (the months of March, April and May) is still in exceptional shape, and that of various masters (June to September) on the Northern wall is well maintained, the same cannot be said about much of the rest, where only faint traces of the old decorations remain. This is in part due to the ravages of time and partly because the fresco was painted over and forgotten for centuries.

In 1598, when the Este could not provide a direct line of succession, the Pope, who had granted the Este feudal rights to Ferrara, expelled them from the city and annexed it to the Papal States. Palazzo Schifanoia like the majority of the more than 50 leisure residences interspersed throughout the territory, fell into decay.

The Este’s expulsion brought to an end an era of fervid artistic activity and arguably the most prosperous period in Ferrara’s history. Their court was considered one of the most refined and progressive in all of Europe. They left the city of Ferrara a fantastic blueprint to their Ideal City they had cultivated for centuries, echoes of which are still evident today. The fresco cycle of the months in Palazzo Schifanoia is a magnificent example of this.

We visit Ferrara on our Undiscovered Riches – Discovering Emila Romagna tour, next scheduled for September 2021 and Emanuela will take us on a guided visit to the Palazzo Schifanoia.

Thank you to Emanuela Mari, local tour guide from Ferrara for contributing this article.

Emanuela fell in love with her city from a very early age — its art, history and culture were so intriguing that she decided to turn it into a career. She first completed a humanities degree (Lettere Moderne) at the University of Ferrara. She then undertook additional studies to become a licensed tour guide for the province.

She’s been working as a tour guide for more than twenty years and loves introducing her clients to Ferrara and its treasures. She speaks Italian, French and English fluently.

If you’re thinking of visiting Ferrara once this pandemic is over, you should definitely book a guided tour of Palazzo Schifanoia with her! You can contact her via her Facebook page, or of course, through us.

Detail from the month of April by Francesco del Cossa
Image by Sailko / CC BY-SA and found on Wikimedia Commons

Detail from the month of March by Francesco del Cossa
Image by Sailko / CC BY-SA and found on Wikimedia Commons

14 Aug HOW TO EAT PARMIGIANO REGGIANO – LET ME COUNT THE WAYS!

Posted at 02:26h in Destinations, Food and Wine by Italian Tours

Sitting at the Trattoria Corrieri in Parma we are presented with a plate piled high with golden, crumbling wedges of Parmigiano Reggiano, and a knife and fork. This is how they do it in Parma. At Luca’s mother’s house we spoon great clouds of the golden cheese onto our pasta. At our friend Theo’s place, we drizzle the best balsamic vinegar over hunks of Parmigiano and eat it with pears. Luca simmers Parmigiano rinds in his winter broth.

Parmigiano is perhaps the best known, the best loved and the most versatile of Italian cheeses. Italians have been making it since the thirteenth century, mainly in the region that takes in Bologna, Parma, Reggio Emilia and Modena.

As part of our Unexpected Riches – Discovering Emilia Romagna tour we travel up into the lower part of the Apennine Mountains above Bologna to visit a caseificio or cheese maker. This is a cooperative of milk producers who raise the original Bruna Alpina cows, the breed that has traditionally produced the milk used for Parmigiano in this area. While other producers have switched to the more productive Friesian style cow, the milk the Bruna Alpina produces has a unique nutty taste and a much higher content of cream.

The cooperative aims to compete with larger companies on the basis of the quality of their cheese. As a group they can combine their technologies and reduce production costs to make this type of process financially viable. They are passionate about their cattle and the quality of the type of cheese produced in the mountain. They belong to a new group called the Consortium of Mountain Producers that is promoting traditional food production.

We make a day trip of this, heading out of Bologna early so that we’re at the caseificio in time to see the cheese being made. If we’re lucky we can see the Bruna Alpina cattle grazing in fields along the way. And of course, the highlight of all this for many people is a tasting of this very special cheese.

Above is a short clip from our visit to Caseificio Pieve Roffeno last year, showing the cheesemakers shaping the soft cheese into what will become a wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano. It’s just one step in a very long process that has been done like this for centuries and strictly regulated by the Italian Parmigiano Consortium for many years.

We’re planning to run our Unexpected Riches – Discovering Emilia Romagna tour again in mid-2021. Please get in touch for more details.

13 Nov THE MANY FACES OF LAKE MAGGIORE

Posted at 00:43h in Destinations, Travel Tips by Italian Tours

Secluded gardens, a magnificent waterfall, a monastery built into the cliff face – Lake Maggiore offers a lot more than the average day-tripper from Milan can see.

All the Italian lakes have beautiful private gardens on their shores. But just outside the town of Intra is a little known garden with links to Australian history. The Botanical Gardens of Villa Taranto were established by Captain Neil Boyd McEacharn, the son of a former Mayor of Melbourne, Sir Malcom Donald McEacharn and Maryanne Watson, daughter of Australian mining millionaire John Boyd Watson. A passionate Italophile, McEacharn spent the decade between 1931 and 1940 establishing this garden at his lakeside villa. Visitors wandering the garden’s seven kilometres of paths can enjoy 20000 plant varieties, and 300 different types of McEacharn’s greatest passion, his dahlias.

Not only are there secluded gardens around the lake, but following the Toce River up the Val Formazza to its source, one finds oneself in an area populated by a group of Italians whose elders still speak a dialect similar to High German, the language of the original settlers. At the top of the valley is the Cascata del Toce, the second largest waterfall in Europe. This waterfall is one of the most spectacular in the Alps, with a stunning freefall jet of water cascading to the rocks below.

Perched on a rocky ridge on the eastern shore of Lake Maggiore is the Hermitage of Santa Caterina del Sasso. Since the 1300s the monastery has been inhabited by members of the Dominican order but is today inhabited by a group of Benedictine oblates. Visitors must maintain silence but are welcome to walk the lovely balconies that overlook the lake and take in the very special atmosphere of the place.

There are other more famous tourist destinations on the lake, most notably the Borromean Islands, Isola Bella, Isola Madre and Isola dei Pescatori, with their justly famous gardens, buildings and vistas. From the Renaissance period they have all been owned and inhabited by members of the Borromean family. The most spectacular of these is Isola Bella, built in 1632 as a wedding present by Charles III for his wife Isabella, and containing Baroque gardens, grottoes and even white peacocks.

We stay on Lake Maggiore as part of our 14-day Milan and the Best of the Italian Lakes tour in May-June 2020 and on our 8-day Lakes Discovery tour in September 2020.

30 Jul The living gem that is Bergamo

Posted at 02:52h in Travel Tips by Italian Tours

Bergamo is one of our all-time favourite small Italian towns — a medieval hilltop borough bristling with towers and atmospheric buildings that are carefully protected and maintained, so that the visitor feels completely immersed in history.

The town is built on three ascending levels. The modern part of the town sits at the base of the hill, and is a thriving commercial centre with pleasant tree-lined streets, parks and gardens. The upper town, or città alta, is reached via a funicular that carries visitors to the medieval centre, the citadel at the top of the hill. Another funicular takes visitors to the third and highest level of the town, San Vigilio, so-called because of the castle that sits at its summit.

Before heading for the città alta, those interested in art galleries might want to spend time in the Museo Accademico di Carrara which is located just outside the Venetian walls that surround the mediaeval centre. It has an excellent collection of Renaissance and medieval paintings and fine art, and is an important regional museum.

The città alta is a wonderful area for walking, with narrow stone streets that lead through various piazze to offer delightful surprises for the casual wanderer.

The walls, originally built by the Venetians, have never been breached and are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Visitors can walk around, along and even within the walls.

However the undoubted highlight is the Palazzo della Ragione, a twelfth century building that was revamped in the 1500s to meet Venetian aesthetic standards — one of those standards being to make the civic building more important than the church! The Venetians created a new piazza, Piazza Vecchia, by demolishing a building, and then rebuilding the town hall so that it faced onto the new piazza and would be the first thing a visitor would see. They completed the new work with the installation of a charming fountain boasting a series of lovely lions.

The town contains a beautiful and intact religious precinct, with two magnificent churches sitting side by side. One is the duomo and one the basilica. The duomo of Bergamo, San Alessandro, is the principal Catholic Church of the city, built in the mid 1400s, while the Basilica Santa Maria Maggiore was funded by local people in a show of wealth and importance in the 1100s. The Bergamaschi traditionally viewed the basilica as the more important church, so when one of the autocratic and powerful local lords had a section of that church demolished in the middle of the night to erect a mausoleum for himself, people were understandably outraged. However, the mausoleum remains and is considered one of the prettiest Renaissance structures in the city to this day.

We’ll be visiting Bergamo – and staying in a medieval tower hotel in the città alta – as part of our Milan and the Italian Lakes tour in May-June 2020.

09 Apr THE UNEXPECTED RICHES OF RAVENNA

Posted at 00:44h in Travel Tips by Italian Tours

Tucked away on the Adriatic coast, not really on the way to any of the major tourist destinations, is a small city that contains some of the most astonishing and beautiful Roman mosaics anywhere in Italy.

After the Roman Empire was divided into two, Constantine established his eastern capital in Constantinople and Ravenna became the capital of the Western Roman Empire from 402AD until its collapse in 496AD. Ravenna then became the capital of the Christian Ostragoth kingdom until 540, when it was taken over by the Byzantine (Eastern Roman) empire as part of a move to reconquer parts of their original homeland on the Italian peninsula. They held the sliver of land along the coastline from Puglia to Venice. Throughout this period of change, however, Ravenna remained a rich and thriving port city with a constant population that maintained its established Roman culture, trade and crafts.

Ravenna’s famous mosaics were completed over a roughly hundred year period from the mid 400s to mid 500s. This artistic tradition of Roman origins, was maintained and influenced by the latter civilisations that inherited the city and in particular by the Byzantines. UNESCO has listed eight buildings as World Heritage Sites, which for what seems like a small town today, demonstrates the enormous wealth and prestige it had at the time.

The mosaics are unusual in that they are so prolific, largely intact and utterly dazzling with huge amounts of gold and brilliant lapis lazuli blue. Before Christianity, Romans used mosaics as decoration for their houses and villas but the Ravenna mosaics represent a shift to religious imagery, and in the style of public art. Significantly, because of the time it takes to create mosaics of this scale and detail, they must have been completed during a period of peace and stability.

The most famous of the churches is the Basilica of San Vitale, which inspired Charlemagne who visited Ravenna three times and used the basilica as his model when he built the Palatine chapel in Aachen in Germany. The central apse towers over the rest of the church so that the visitor gazes upwards to see the intricate golden mosaics that line the cupola.

However, the oldest and possibly the most beautiful of the buildings is the mausoleum of Galla Placidia, the tomb of the daughter of the Roman Emperor Theodosius I. This small rounded building is set in the grounds of San Vitale and the entire barrel vaulted ceiling is decorated with gorgeous brilliantly coloured mosaics. Looking up the visitor sees hundreds of dazzling golden stars in a midnight blue sky. At the end of the vault the lunette features an image of a beardless Christ, very different from the normal iconography which portrays Christ with a beard.

All of the buildings containing these unique mosaics are collected around the centre of Ravenna and it’s easy to visit the sites in a day or two.

We stay in Ravenna and visit the mosaics as part of our new Unexpected Riches – Discovering Emilia Romagna tour, which runs from the 16 – 27 September 2019 and there are still a couple of places available!

09 Jan MATERA – A CITY FROM ANOTHER TIME

Posted at 05:14h in Travel Tips by Italian Tours

As you look out over the sassi districts in the city of Matera, you could be forgiven for thinking you had been transported back in time to a city out of the bible. The view of stone dwellings, reaching far back into ancient caves, with narrow donkey paths winding in between them, is quite unforgettable. Indeed film director Mel Gibson used this city as the setting for his movie The Passion of the Christ.

Matera, in Basilicata just to the west of Puglia, is probably the oldest continuously inhabited city in the whole of Europe. Matera is built on top of a cliff on the edge of a gorge, about 250 metres deep, with a river running through it. There is a stratum of stone that is soft and white, like a cross between sandstone and limestone, and since prehistoric times people have burrowed out shelters into the sides of the gorge. Over time they became more sophisticated than simple holes in the rock, though some of those still remain and were used as animal shelters by shepherds or as wine cellars. People began building small structures at the front incorporating the door, the window and the kitchen with its chimney and would then excavate the other rooms into the rock behind. Others would build into the rock above them, so the whole place became like an anthill, with people living one on top of another in chambers carved out of the rock with little frontages to allow for kitchens and chimneys, a bit of light. There might only be a metre and a half of rock between the ceiling of one dwelling and the floor of the one above it.

Later Matera became the capital of Basilicata and work began to gentrify the city on the top of the ravine. There was no burrowing there, as the rock was too hard, but the erection of high quality standard buildings instead. An upper class moved in to administer the area and provide services, so the two sassi areas became places where the poor lived. It became a shameful thing to live in the sassi, and the upper city was built to deliberately hide any view of these poor areas from the centre of town. Later however, Matera lost its position as regional capital and the wealthier people moved on. Without the investment of the elite, living conditions in the sassi became appalling with no running water, no sewerage and no roads. The area became a hotbed of disease – malaria, cholera, typhoid, tuberculosis. It wasn’t until a novelist wrote a book about the area that the Italian government sat up and took notice. In the 1950s they began a slum clearance program to move the 17,000 residents out of the area and it was abandoned.

In the late 1980s the area began to be revalued and became a World Heritage site. People started restoring dwellings and moving back in while today the government will lease dwellings to those who are prepared to pay for restoration. There are lots of hotels and B&Bs springing up and tourism is beginning to really bite. In 2019 Matera is the European Cultural Capital which will also have a huge effect on visitor numbers.

Matera is definitely a place to see right now, before the rest of the world arrives. Our Puglia, the Road Less Travelled tour for May 2019 is already sold out but we do have places available on the September 2019 tour which includes a wonderful day exploring the town of Matera.

27 Feb A POSTCARD FROM LAGO D’ORTA

Posted at 04:58h in Travel Tips by Italian Tours

The Lago d’Orta or Lake Orta is one of the relatively undiscovered gems of the Italian Lakes district, a smaller lake, not too distant from Lake Maggiore. It is quaint and extremely picturesque especially on its southern side.

The small town of Orta San Giulio is undoubtedly the pearl of the lake. The town spills down the hillside to the lake shore, overlooking the water and the romantic island of San Guilio below. Visitors can while away lazy afternoons exploring the narrow streets with their quaint houses and baroque palaces, sipping coffee in the piazza on the water’s edge in front of the Island of San Giulio or wandering along the lakeshore.

The island of San Giulio reputedly has mystical properties. It is no wonder therefore that it was the site of an early Christian community fighting against paganism in the area. The first known structure dates to the end of the 300s. Legend has it that the proselytising Saint Giulio defeated a dragon on the Island and then built the first basilica with the help of wolves. On that site today stands the 11th century Basilica of Saint Giulio, one of the most significant examples of Romanesque architecture in Piedmont, and seminary, now a Benedictine monastery, which towers over the rest of the island. The Basilica is an impressive, solid structure. It has some interesting frescoes, some from the 1350s, others from the early 1500s. Its most impressive possession, though, is the 12th century pulpit in black marble. The Romanesque bas-reliefs are exquisite, one portraying either William of Volpiano or Saint Giulio. William of Volpiano was a Benedictine reformer, born on the island and renowned for being the architect of the Abbeys of Mont Saint-Michel, of Saint-Germain-des-Prés in Paris and of Fécamp in Normandy.

A ferry service takes visitors out to the island where they can explore the churches and enjoy the peace and atmosphere of this enchanting place.

If you’re feeling energetic, take a walk up the hill behind Orta San Giulio to the Sacro Monte di Orta, a devotional complex of 20 chapels built between the 16th and 18th Centuries. The chapels are interesting, but the views out over the Lago d’Orta and the Isola San Giulio are breathtaking.

SOME PRACTICALITIES

Visit Lago d’Orta with Italian Tours:
Lago d’Orta is featured in two of our itineraries in 2018:
Milan and the Lakes tour (31 May -13 June 2018)
Tastes of Piedmont and Valle d’Aosta tour (3 – 16 October 2018)

Or you can visit Lago d’Orta on your own with these tips:
How to get there:
It’s not easy to get to Lago d’Orta with public transport, so your best option is to travel with your own car. The town of Orta San Giulio is about an hour and half from Milan or 30 minutes from Stresa on Lake Maggiore.

Where to stay:
The Hotel San Rocco is our pick of the hotels located on Orta San Giulio. Set on the lakeshore, all the superior rooms have wonderful lake views and the hotel terrace is a wonderful spot to enjoy an aperitivo or light dinner.

Where to eat:
Located in the centre of Orta San Giulio, Ristorante Venus has a wonderful terrace overlooking the lake.

06 Jan FIVE REASONS TO VISIT PUGLIA

Posted at 01:10h in Destinations, Travel Tips by Italian Tours

Avoid the crowds and enjoy the slow life

Although Puglia is starting to attract crowds, particularly to big name destinations like Lecce and Alberobello, it’s still relatively easy to avoid the type of crowds that plague cities like Rome and Florence. Locals still live the traditional slow life: shops close at lunchtime, people go home for lunch, there’s time for a siesta – all a fabulous excuse for you to relax and absorb the slower-paced atmosphere.

The history

Puglia’s position in the heel of the Italian boot, close to modern-day Albania and Greece, has contributed to a rich cultural legacy. Over hundreds of years diverse groups of people settled on land traditionally inhabited by the local Messapian tribes: Spartans, Greeks and Romans in ancient times, followed during the middle ages by a series of Bourbons, Angevins, Normans and Saracens. Their influence is evident in the unique culture of the Puglian people today and in the artifacts on show in the museums of Lecce and the MARTA in Taranto.

Delicious food and wine

Pugliese gastronomy – some of the best food you’ll find anywhere in Italy! The region is traditionally agricultural and the land continues to provide outstanding fresh, high quality produce. Puglia is particularly famous for olives and olive oil, cherries, eggless pasta, burrata and other cheeses, almonds, tomatoes, lemons, wheat bread and of course the fresh seafood. The local cuisine reflects this bounty. Until about ten years ago Puglia exported the bulk of its grapes and wine; however these days Puglia is focusing on boutique wines and producing exceptional varieties like Primitivo, Negroamaro, Bombino Bianco and Susumaniello.

Towns like nowhere else

Apart from the big name towns that have plenty of publicity, Puglia has a host of small lesser known towns that can absorb the interested traveler for hours on end. We can recommend charming small towns like Martina Franca and Locorotondo in the Valle d’Itria or Vieste and Trani along the coast. The Pugliese are extremely proud of their towns and maintain their flower boxes and streetscapes in picture perfect condition.

Blue waters of the Gargano Peninsula in Puglia

A stunning blue coastline

Puglia is surrounded on three sides by the Ionian, the Taranto and the Adriatic Seas. The coastal landscapes differ but are invariably stunning: limestone cliffs and stacks and pebble beaches along the Gargano Peninsula, white sandy beaches on the western coast, the spectacular rocky coastline in the east and everywhere a startling blue sea.

Maybe 2018 is the year you should get to know this wonderful corner of southern Italy!

We run regular tours to Puglia each year.
Contact us today to book your place!

15 Dec AN ITALIAN CHRISTMAS

Posted at 03:22h in Travel Tips by Italian Tours

Sick of the commercialisation of Christmas? Well, perhaps think about heading to Italy, where although the trappings of commercialisation are creeping in, many Italian families still celebrate Christmas in traditional ways.

Christmas traditionally begins on 8 December, when the Christmas lights that festoon the streets of almost every Italian city are turned on. This date marks the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, which celebrates the conception of Mary, mother of Jesus.

Presepi, or nativity scenes, are installed in churches and homes throughout the country, with an empty manger awaiting the arrival of the baby Jesus. Christmas markets begin in the piazze of major towns.

On Christmas Eve churches celebrate midnight mass, with the service beginning about an hour before midnight; as the clock strikes twelve, the Christ child is carried into the church by a procession of priests who bless the figure and then place it in the manger. The lights are turned on and the congregation celebrates.

Christmas Verona — Image: Gianni Crestani

Italian families celebrate Christmas Day with a family lunch. You won’t see turkey and the trimmings though! What families eat depends very much on where they live. Luca’s Friulian family would typically enjoy soup or risotto with porcini or radicchio and speck, Montasio cheese, boiled meats with horseradish or roasted stuffed guinea fowl, followed by a pinza, a cake made from polenta, with apples, fennel and dried fruit and nuts.

Our friend Anna in Arezzo sits down to tortellini in brodo, followed by pasta and then roasted meats and perhaps a panettone stuffed with custard.

Traditionally, gifts were not exchanged on Christmas Day but on 6 January, the Feast of the Epiphany, which is when the Magi visited the baby Jesus. On this day in some areas of Italy, a witch called La Befana visits the children and hands out sweets and gifts, or pieces of coal to the naughty ones. Luca tells us that some Italian confectionary entrepreneurs have developed a line of sweets shaped and coloured exactly like coal – a rather mixed message we think!

We’d like to wish all of our friends and clients a very happy holiday season for this year, a wonderful 2018 and we hope to see some of you next year on tour!

24 Nov AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO MILAN

Posted at 04:35h in Destinations, Travel Tips by Italian Tours

What’s not to love about Milan? Milan’s Expo in 2015 really put the city on the tourist map, not only as a convenient transport hub but as a destination in its own right, offering culture, food and fashion.

We’re lucky enough to visit Milan fairly regularly as it’s the first base on our Milan and the Italian Lakes tour (31 May – 13 June 2018 – read the itinerary here) and we’ve got to know the city fairly well over the years.

So where do you start in Milan? Most visitors head straight for the Duomo and the Galleria in the centre of Milan, a great place to start your tour of the city and undeniably the area with the biggest wow factor.

You need to buy tickets for the Duomo. Smart travellers will pre-book tickets that allow them to skip the queue and get through security that much faster. You can buy a combined ticket for the Duomo, the roof walk (which we think is an unmissable experience) and the Museo del Duomo, which provides an excellent history of the building. Visit the official website for ticket sales here.

From the Duomo, wander through the Galleria by all means, but look upwards and avoid the expensive tourist shops that proliferate here. If you are keen to shop in Milan, Philippa recommends the Brera area for boutique shopping; for big brand names and high-street chains explore the Corso that extends behind the Duomo; for more budget shopping, try the Corso Buenos Aires area.

You may want to see Da Vinci’s masterpiece, the Last Supper, which has been beautifully restored. Tickets sell out fast and there is very little chance of simply turning up on the day and gaining admission. Make sure you book well in advance. The official site publishes the date when tickets will go on sale for a specific month so it’s worth keeping an eye on the site to ensure you don’t miss the booking window.

While you’re in the area don’t miss Santa Maria delle Grazie, the church that is attached to the refectory where the Last Supper is housed. Luca is a particular fan of the Bramante designed cupola sitting atop this gothic church. To get there take the number 16 tram from Piazza Cordusio or take a cab.

But Milan offers much, much more than the big three attractions. Here is a list of some of our favourites:

For art lovers visit the Pinacoteca di Brera, a treasure house of Italian art and more. Don’t miss Mantegna’s Dead Christ and the Three Mourners, as well as works by Bellini, Piero della Francesca, Tintoretto and Caravaggio.

Less than a kilometre from the Brera, is the smaller and charmingly eclectic Museo Poldi Pezzoli. This was once a private family house and collection and contains a fascinating assortment of artworks including a beautiful Botticelli, exquisite porcelain and a stunning display of armour.

Classical music buffs should jump at the chance to attend a performance at the Teatro alla Scala. There are performances of ballet, opera and classical music almost all year round, except for August. You need to buy tickets well in advance and be sure to book on the official La Scala website to avoid the ticket scalpers.

Want some more wonderful churches? Our favourites are Sant Eustorgio to see the Cappella Portinari, the most exquisite Renaissance chapel remaining in Milan; Sant’Ambrogio, which is one of the oldest churches in the city and an excellent example of medieval architecture; San Maurizio which has a complete and spectacular Renaissance fresco cycle that covers every surface in the church.

Sore feet? After all this activity, wind down with an aperitivo in the Navigli area, where a collection of great bars and restaurants line one of the old canals that were once used as transport arteries in Milan. It’s picturesque, trendy and lively – a wonderful way to finish the day.

Where to stay:

We love the Hotel Gran Duca di York, a lovely 3 star hotel tucked away on a quiet street just a three-minute walk from the Piazza del Duomo.

Where to eat:

For food lovers, a visit to Peck is a must. Part upmarket grocer, part cafe and restaurant, it’s worth a visit simply to take in the sumptuous displays of fruit and vegetables, meats, cheeses, pastries, chocolates and more.

For an authentic meal in the centre of town, try Trattoria Milanese (Via Santa Marta, 11), where you can try local specialities like Risotto alla Milanese (flavoured with saffron) and the Cotolleta alla Milanese, essentially a giant veal schnitzel.

You can visit Milan with Italian Tours as part of our delightful Milan and the Italian Lakes tour from the 31 May – 13 June 2018! You’ll also stay in the wonderful medieval town of Bergamo and visit Lakes Como, Maggiore and Orta on this 14-day tour.